10 thoughts on “Craps! strategy that is very Underutilized! Iron Cross from the DONT

  1. I love the strategy, but I just didn't like suggesting to take down or tone down the don't…absolutely ridiculous. U should edit the video or put out a correction about placing the point number. When u toned down the don't from 200 to 25, i know u are just making an example, but now guys will actually do something retarded like that, no offense. I know you're already up money, but why just flush money down the toilet? U set yourself up to win or lose 25, instead of just winning 10 or winning 50. 🤔 Why give away 25 or give away 35? If that's the case, (I'm just busting your balls don't be offended) just donate some money to me.

  2. Nice video Jacob. Saving up a bnkroll for next try. This might be too large of a play for me, but it does seem like a faster way to get some wins as long as I can make the comeout and not roll quick points.

  3. I like this. May try it on bubble craps although a bit trickier avoiding the come out roll since there is no possibility of dice control.

  4. I find that this is a winner sometimes and a loser other times. Of course no system is immune from a bad roll. A 7 or 11 on the come out does happen, you can be the controlled shooter but when the dice hit the wall and flip anything is possible. The other problem is hitting the repeaters within three rolls which wipe out the DP. I have seen several repeaters hitting two or three points in a row. I propose a better solution of starting with inside place bets. It would be $132 inside ($36 on the 6&8, $30 on the 5&9) (this is for a $5 table, scale it up as needed). You will probably need between $500 and a $1,000 bank roll. If I get one hit, I win $42 and regress to a $39 iron cross (2 units each on the 5,6&8 and a $5 field) for two rolls, after 2 IC hits take all down which usually wins around $50 (If I am up a lot I may gamble staying up on the IC with pressing on the 5,6,&8 but even then I am prone to take it all down after 2 to 4 presses of each number). Since the inside numbers hit 3x more often than the seven, I tend to move ahead and this is without any controlled shooting (if you can actually control the dice this system would be a real big money maker). One of the beauties of this idea is that you don't lose on a come out 11 as only the seven can take down your place bets (we have all seen back to back Yo when trying to hit a number for a DP, it happens). I tried the system in this video several times with mixed results and have tried the system I described above dozens of times and I got significantly more wins – maybe I was just lucky.

  5. Enjoying your videos, Jacob. Your thoughts on riding out the point after the 3 hits with a 200 don't?

    Switch to only a buy bet of 140 on the point if a 4/10 (+60 on 7, +52? on point) or 165 place on a point of 5/9 (+35 on 7, +31 on point). On a 6/8 switch to 180 on point (20 or 10 coming in) or reduce to only don't of $50 or $25 and order a drink.

    Could also after 3 hits and with longer roll anticipated, collect until point or 7 with below
    4/10 point 140 on point and go 2 units 5/6/8 and 5 on field
    5/10 point 165 point and 2 units on remaining inside numbers
    6/8 point 180 on point and 6 on open 6/8

  6. Also, once you point is established, let’s say the point is 5. Can you place the 5 so you don’t lose your Dont bet? And put odds on the don’t to cover the cost???

  7. I tried this strategy with my hedges and I got up to $1100 profit in 10 minutes on Wizard of Odds. As soon as the point is established, I put $200 place bet on that point to cover the Dont Pass. Then I put another $200 on odds on the Dont Pass. The only thing is I don’t know odds math and I noticed I was up when certain points hit and I lost the dont pass and I was down a little when certain points hit and lost the 7. Or maybe when the 7 hit, I was up or down a little. Can you tweak it so everything is covered? Protecting the dont with a place bet on the point. And then put odds on the dont.

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